Wednesday, November 10, 2010

The World Series of Gastronomy, Part I

New York, October 17 -

Back in the San Francisco days, I dated a woman named Emily. It was one of those aromatic May-December things - she was 21, I was 26, and the enormous gulf of our years tore us apart. It was awful.

We had two things in common, though, and both sustained us through viewing the world from almost completely different lenses. The first was jazz. We loved the music but differed heavily on artists. She as a Wynton Marsalis/Jazz Messengers kind of person. I was a John Coltrane man.

That bears repeating: I was a Coltrane man.

Coltrane now.
Coltrane tomorrow.
Coltrane forever.

We came together where it counted _ at the intersections of Wayne Shorter and Stan Getz _ as well as with Trane overlaps. Lee Morgan _before he was shot to death in between sets by his common-law wife (ironically at an East Village club named Slugs) was a Jazz Messenger but played as a 19-year old on Coltrane's seminal Blue Train) and it was Emily who introduced me to Antonio Carlos Jobim and Joao Gilberto. I may have, yes, called her a "Southern California brat" to her face, but you have to give her credit for that...

But where Emily made  the most important imprint on my life was with a single sentence. Oakland, California, it was, Piedmont Ave...
"Food," she said. "Food brings people together."

The first year I began covering baseball was 1998, the Oakland Athletics for the San Jose Mercury News. Obesity statistics in America have clearly reached pandemic proportions and sportswriters around the country have certainly done their part. That year, not only did I track how many baseball games I covered for the Mercury that year (112 of 162) but I also counted how many hot dogs I ate across the American League (144, I believe. I will consult my 1998 scorebook).

144 hot dogs in 112 games.

America has grown, both in education and waist size since those innocent days. And NO, I do not regret asking the sales clerk at the Macy's Westshore in Tampa a month earlier "What is happening to this country?" when it was easier to find size 38x30 jeans instead of my size (33x32).

 The citizens of the great city of New York - without being asked their permission - paid out $1.3 billion in taxpayer money for new Yankee Stadium and one of the touches of the new yard is a calorie chart next to each item along the stadium concourses and food court. When the Yankees and Texas Rangers met for Game 3 of the American League Championship Series I had resolved that this would be the season I would avoid the nightmarish box lunches that are the  annual fare for the press during the postseason: Roast beef suffocated by plastic, a withered pear, some Lay's potato chips and maybe a brownie.

Hadn't I graduated from this? Didn't I have a more inspired culinary destiny for myself?

It was  time to eat healthier, time to stake my claim as an evolved gastronomist.
It was time to renounce, McGwire-like, the year 1998, when I ate 144 hot dogs. (in 112 games).
It was time to order the Nathan's cheese fries at 1341 calories...

In other words, with one basket of cheese fries, I was eating the equivalent of 4 1/2 Nathan's hot dogs (Kobayashi would be proud!)

At that moment I decided it was time to rethink the Golden Arches...Maybe they were good for the world.


After all, one Quarter Pounder with Cheese (510 calories) + a Big Mac (540 calories) + 6-piece Chicken McNugget (280 calories) = 1330 calories combined.

(source: http://nutrition.mcdonalds.com/nutritionexchange/nutritionfacts.pdf)


"You rely on us to deliver quality food, and we take that responsibility seriously. From our team of registered dietitians to our trusted suppliers, we’re dedicated to making you feel good about choosing McDonald's foods and beverages."  -- From the McDonald's company web site.

Monday, November 8, 2010

What do you do in the shower?

Here's what I do: I waste the valuable resource of water by showering too long, but what I've lost in green points over the years I've recouped through inspiration.

Today, clearly channeling having watched High Fidelity for the thousandth time the other night, I thought about my two holy grail choices for 2011...

1) The French Laundry, Napa Valley, California (http://www.frenchlaundry.com/)
2)  O Ya Boston (http://www.oyarestaurantboston.com/)

Dreams or goals? You be the judge...

Meantime, as the year winds down, two places really stood out: Tojo's Vancouver (http://www.tojos.com/) and Boa Los Angeles (http://boasteak.com/)

It's been awhile...

NOVEMBER 8, 2010, and much has changed since snapping off a quick photo of a little sushi from my beloved Samurai (827 Boylston Street, Boston) and beginning a transcontinental gastronomic adventure periodically interrupted by the Texas Rangers zooming past the Yankees only to fall flat against the surprising championship charge of the San Francisco Giants.

We have a new World Series champion. We have food. We have toys. We have questions that need answers. We have much to discuss.


But before we begin, a quick note about Samurai: Old-school Bostonian will remember the space as the back-bay staple Gyuhama, down the street from the Boston Public Library. Gyhuma has been gone since summer 2006 and while people like to lament closings and the passage of time, I do not mourn its lost. I'm glad it's gone.

Samurai sushi is better. The atmosphere is better. The drinks are better. The fish is fresher, the rolls more creative and tastier. The flavor of the unagi was not left in the microwave. And Samurai retained Gyuhama's one virtue - it serves until  1 a.m. Tuesday and Wednesday, 2 a.m. Thursday through Saturday.

You see, late-night dining is very important around these parts...

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Samurai sushi, Boston

What we have here, leaving the Boston Book Festival, is an Alligator Roll (tempura, avocado, unagi) with two pieces of bluefin toro nigiri. Yeah, boyeee!
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Saturday, October 9, 2010

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Roy's!

The Lakanilau roll: Wagyu beef, snow crab, tempura asparagus, avocado, sesame miso, truffled greens. Oh yeah.
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Monday, September 6, 2010

Fang - A photo essay in gastronomy

The Company You Keep: Ratto and Murphy
 There was a time, long before The Carpaccio Files, that a photoessay in gastronomy seemed impossible. The year was 1999. We were in Detroit. "We" were the Oakland A's traveling beat of Brian Murphy (That smiling man on the right), Susan Slusser, Mark Saxon, Gary Washburn, and me.
It was the final year of Tiger Stadium and in the dank corner of the press lounge (earlier I had nearly vomited from the overwhelming stench of bleach), Gary presided over an gastronomic nightmare: overdose heapings of potatoes and fried chicken, upon which the mighty G-Wash pumped frightening amounts of A-1 Steak Sauce.

I stopped him, horrified, and said, "Gary, A-1 is not for fried chicken. It's for steaks and marinades," to which he uttered a now famous line: "Tonight, fried is marinated."

How, from those unpolished beginnings, do Murph and I wind up at Fang, for what has become a tremendous tradition of daytime dining excellence?

And furthermore, how does Ray Ratto, King of Snapple, join us for the feast?

Fang Pork Buns with Cilantro


Sesame chicken with sweet potatoes, rice and green apple

Periodically, when I review the photos of these delights, I am reminded that it cost $500 just to walk into The French Laundry, a ridiculous, even criminal sum of money despite the fact that in one of their dishes they use Jerusalem artichokes, called "sunchokes." The sunchoke is neither from Israel nor an artichoke, but a type of sunflower, but I digress...




Mongolian Beef Tower
 The Mongolian Beef Tower, complete with haricots verts (That would be French for "green beans") was, for me, the height of gastronomic excellence - a staggering blend of spices and textures.


Of course, the name "Mongolian" also always brings to mind the wrestler Killer Khan, who like a Jerusalem artichoke was neither from Mongolia nor a killer - but Ozawa Masashi, from Japan, who according to Wrestlepedia, now owns a restaurant in Japan...

Killer Khan from Mongolia?

Still, before watching the WWF in the early 1980s, I had never heard of Mongolia...


Fang Five-Spice whitefish
 Meanwhile, the hits kept on coming...

Barbecued spare ribs
Fang onion cake

And a grasshopper mojito for me!

Fang after-lunch liquer

And finally,  cookies!
When it was over, and the cookies had been devoured and we debated whether that last dish (the Mongolian Tower) represented a fatal overkill, I saluted Peter Fang, had a picture taken with him and took a walk. Fang wins again...