Thursday, October 27, 2011

Tony, death, and a pretty good lamb chop....

Gateway to the West. City of Death


Arriving in St. Louis for Game 6 carried a temporary moment of dread. I was hoping for a quick series, hoping that it would end in Texas, averting a return to a city I do not particularly like. I have my reasons.



I don't like the Cardinals. My experience with this franchise has never particularly been positive. It really has little to do with the team. Bob Gibson (along with Jackie Robinson, Sandy Koufax and Willie Mays) is high on my list of favorite players I never saw play. So is Curt Flood.

The problem is the manager, Tony La Russa. He and I are not warm. He probably does not remember this but he introduced me into the sportswriting game thusly.

The date was Sunday, Sept. 19, 1993. I was 24 years old, sent to cover an Oakland A’s-Chicago White Sox game for the Oakland Tribune to spell John Hickey, the regular beat writer. I only remember two things about the game.

Dennis Eckersley entered a 1-1 game in the ninth and gave up a two-run home run to Robin Ventura.

I wrote a story, saying that Eckersley lost the game, but the Tribune headline read, “Eck blows another save, A’s lose.”

Naturally, entering a tie-game is NOT a save situation. I was betrayed by my own paper on my first day on the job. As fate would have it, I was sent out the very next night, to cover A’s-Royals, the first big-league start of touted phenom Todd Van Poppel.

Before the game, La Russa was in his office fuming. Numerous veteran writers were there: Frank Blackman and Ray Ratto of the San Francisco Examiner, Pedro Gomez of the San Jose Mercury News, David Bush of the San Francisco Chronicle. I stood in the corner.

La Russa focused on Blackman, holding up my story. “You see the shit I have to put up with, Frank? You see? Where’s Hickey? This is bullshit.”

Moments later, La Russa noticed the byline was not Hickey’s but mine.

“Howard Bryant? Who the fuck is Howard Bryant?”

I raised my hand, and said, “Tony, the story’s right. The story didn’t say it was a save situation.”

La Russa ignored me, and continued on, with Blackman playing a willing straight man. “You see, Frank? This is the kind of shit I put up with every day.”

La Russa continued to embarrass me with his false outrage. Finally, Pedro Gomez interrupted and said, “Tony, you know we don’t write the headlines. Leave the kid alone.” Welcome to the big leagues, Howard Fucking Bryant.



Twelve years later, during the height of the Steroid Era, it would be La Russa and I would clash again, this time when we both appeared on 60 Minutes in February 2005, and again in 2009 during an hour and 10 minute phone clash over a column I wrote asking why La Russa defended the disgraced Mark McGwire more than McGwire defended himself.

La Russa and my final clash came last year, when McGwire completed his deception-as-redemption tour, finally admitting the worst-kept secret since Liberace’s homosexuality: Mark McGwire used steroids after all. “La Russa called me, and we went at it again, him asking me if “I believed in forgiveness” and how I could “be so sure McGwire would be not a positive influence.” I told him neither was not nearly as relevant to me as my question for him: “why is McGwire the one who gets to say he’s sorry after lying for all these years and collecting roughly $75 million in career salary?” We agreed to disagree, but only after La Russa said to me, “I have respect for you. I didn’t think you had the guts to call me back. Most people in your industry wouldn’t.”

Having made peace with La Russa, I hopped in a cab for Game 6, and headed for downtown, the Hyatt at the Arch, formerly the old Adams Mark Hotel. We leave the tollgate at Lambert Airport and the cab driver made a wicked, erratic screech onto the freeway. I put my seatbelt on.

Shortly into the drive, he is swerving into the right lane. I look in the driver’s rearview mirror to see his eyes fluttering, his head nodding to the left. He straightened slightly, only to fall completely asleep.

I yell at him. “ARE YOU ALL RIGHT?”

“Huh? Oh, I’m good. I’m good.” What an uninspiring way to check out…Finally, we get to the hotel, and I say to this menace, "You need to get some sleep." He responds, "I got it. I got it."

That said, Tony and the napping cabbie notwithstanding, St. Louis deserved the opportunity for redemption, and Dominic’s seemed to be the perfect starting place. The restaurant is old-school, one of those elegant establishments with crisp white tablecloths with only a few diners. And of course, it was irresistible to quote a few lines from the ill-fated Turk, Solozzo, from The Godfather ("You give me too much credit, kid. I'm the hunted one."). We took a round table near the front of the restaurant and the entrée of choice was the veal T-Bone chop with truffles sauce, fingerling potatoes with carrots and zucchini.
"Try the veal. It's the best in the city." 

The choice was solid, an upgrade over a competent carpaccio appetizer. Having missed the Sidney Street Café meal before Game 1, I was satisfied that Dominic’s compensated.

That was, until our waiters, Bruno and his wife Ryan, took our plates away and Dave Sheinin of the Washington Post said, “I’m sorry, but Sidney Street blows this place away.”

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Tenderloin Carpaccio

Consistent with the rules of engagement, there was a carpaccio on the menu, so I ordered it, and it was classic: wafer-thin and delicate, albeit a bit heavy on the olive oil. It was a welcome recovery from the disappointing beef carpaccio at Bern's in Tampa, which required a knife (an instant disqualification).

We added two more appetizers: artichoke with shrimp and spinach, which turned out to be a mystery plate because no one at the table recalled the shrimp (Mark Kriegel ate it, leaving the table with artichoke), and the steak alla tartara, which was rich and competent, but could not measure up to the tuna tartare with avocado and caviar from Ozumo in San Francisco.

Still, the appetizers received a solid B+...after eating poorly in Detroit, and dreading St. Louis, Dominic's was restoring my faith.
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Dominic's on the Hill, St. Louis

In the visitor's dugout at Rangers Ballpark in Arlington, between peppering him with questions about the efficacy (or lack thereof) of back-loaded contracts (Alex Rodriguez, six years, $143 million) and the odds of retaining Albert Pujols (market price versus the "iconic factor"), St. Louis Cardinals Vice President and General Manager John Mozeliak offered up his favorite restaurant in the city. Hands went up enthusiastically for the Sidney Street Cafe (www.sidneystreetcafe.com). Mine did not, for when the boys arrived at Sidney Street last week before Game 1 of the World Series, I was lodged at the Hyatt at the Arch (the grimmest of Hyatts), loaded up on NyQuil eating chicken noodle soup.

Mozeliak acknowledged Sidney Street but preferred Dominic's on the Hill (www.dominicsrestaurant.com), and on Tuesday night, we took him up on his suggestion...
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Friday, October 14, 2011

Swinging and missing in D-Town





Comerica Park before ALCS Game 5



I was wrong about Detroit. I have a friend who likes me to repeat when I say I'm wrong, just to hear me admit a second time that I was wrong. That says something...

People would ask me which cities I dreaded the most. I would usually say, in order, "Detroit, Cleveland, Houston..." I based this opinion on old data. In the old days, when I covered both the Oakland A's and the New York Yankees, downtown Detroit was essentially devoid of hotels. There was the Atheneum, the Doubletree and the Ren Center. I stayed at Hyatt Hotels, which meant Dearborn. 
Dearborn meant driving to old Tiger Stadium. Outside of the late-night run to White Castle along Michigan Avenue, it meant driving everywhere _ from the airport to the hotel to the ballpark _ and nothing seemed particularly convenient. 
AND...since I don't really like Greek food so much, it was a terrible food town. How many times, I ask, can one go to Fishbones?

 Before arriving Tuesday for the ALCS, I hadn't been to Detroit since 2002, and in the nearly 10 years since, things have changed for the business traveler. The Westin Book Cadillac hotel is solid, even more so because of Michael Symon's Roast (http://www.roastdetroit.com/), Slow's barbecue (http://www.slowsbarbq.com/) and a place I was willing to take _ trying to branch out _ a Greek flyer on, Pegasus (http://www.pegasustavernas.com/index2.html). Suddenly, there were food options AND I could walk to Comerica Park. Things were looking up...


Great baseball. No food. Box lunches. What kind of destiny is that?
Until they weren't...Two years ago, I had vowed to wake up earlier, to manage my mornings and afternoons to factor in ample time for lunch, to avoid the dreaded postseason box lunches and ballpark food. ("This is your body on cheese fries"). I had vowed to be better.

No chance. Sunday's rainout in Texas wiped out Monday's off-day in Detroit which wiped out the one free night for dinner (buh-bye, Roast!). Tuesday was a night game, Wednesday's rain delay wiped out the 4:19 p.m. start (the game started as 6:30 and went 11, yes, 11 innings) and any chance of a late dinner and by Thursday, with an outside chance at a 9 p.m. dinner at Roast, I had been beaten down, lost my mojo.

Detroit was there for me, and I failed it....but there is good news. D-town is off the list, replaced heartily by St. Louis...  

Ground Rules (or are they?)

Rules are not made to be broken. Rules are made to be adhered to, they are made to provide a structure, an ethic, a framework. The rules of The Carpaccio Files are simple:
1) No Chains: Here is a perfect example of the ambiguity and classist nature of the rule. Clearly, this rule has never been followed. Nobu (http://www.noburestaurants.com/), with 24 locations worldwide ranging from Waikiki to Budapest, clearly qualifies as a chain. Yet Nobu 57 has been featured on these pages (I hope so, since I was at Nobu 57 last year). Roy's (http://www.roysrestaurant.com/), has multiple locations across eight states. I have been to Roy's in Kauai, San Francisco, New York, Tampa, Newport Beach, Calif, and Philadelphia. Where, I ask is the enforcement of this "rule?"

2) No revisits, except for quality control purposes: My boy Brian Murphy (http://twitter.com/knbrmurph) asked me a long time ago, "can you vouch?" meaning was I willing to use the credit of my good name. Therefore, if I'm going to recommend a place, it is my personal responsibility to make sure I'm vouching for quality, hence repeat visits to Fang (San Francisco), Bern's (Tampa), Oishii (Boston). I put my name on the line for these establishments.

3) If beef carpaccio is on the menu, it must be ordered:  Naturally. Why else name the blog carpaccio in the first place?


How, then, can we explain the constant violation of rule number 1? The simple answer must be "class." TGI Fridays is a chain, as is Houlihan's, Olive Garden and Nobu. The difference is that one (Nobu) is so spectacular and exclusive that it doesn't feel like a chain. The difference is clearly class based. Perhaps the rule should be revised to say no "bad chains." Or maybe I should just be consistent...

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Catching up...

As the photo of Koi suggests, I have some serious catching up to do...we will have details from some recent visits, which include:

The Spiced Pear (Newport, RI)
Koi (New York)
Roy's (Newport Beach, CA)
Bern's (Tampa)
And many more...
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Koi, New York (Sept. 1, 2011)

So, my companion for the evening, one Amy K. Nelson (also known as AK-47 for the destruction she has been known to leave in her wake) says to me, "It is a bit embarrassing to be in New York and have dinner at a chain."

I respect that, and I wouldn't have run afoul of such an immutable law had I *known* Koi, located in the Bryant Hotel in Bryant Park *was* a chain. One demerit for the foodie...I would try to plead this down, but ignorance is no defense against lawbreaking....
Howard Bryant
Senior Writer
ESPN.com and ESPN the Magazine
Cellular: (413) 695-8142
Office: (413) 628-4544

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Sunday, October 9, 2011

Beef Carpaccio

After a long absence, I present the beef carpaccio at the Grand Met, the Grand Hyatt, Dallas...
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